Journey Through Bhutan

Preetam wrote this account of our trip to Bhutan:

Journey through Bhutan: Apr 4 – 18, 2008

Day 1
Our landing in Paro was spectacular. The plane coasting along the forested valley (not more than 100 ft. above the ground) before landing and the airport standing out in contrast to the homogenized architecture of airports all over the world – reminding us that we were entering a unique land, largely untouched by western influence.
Raju had got our names wrong on the placard. After a while, there was only 1 guide and 1 group of tourists and Raju must have concluded that we were indeed from Banjara Camps. Even though Banjara Camps was written on the placard, it was in small font and we couldn’t read it while we passed him earlier. Raju was pleasant and as we were later to find out, a very resourceful guide. Ram (the driver) was courteous and he would be great company during the rest of our journey.
Gangtey Palace was a perfect choice for a hotel. It had character - Raju told us it used to be the Paro Penlop’s palace. The location, over-looking the Paro dzong as well as the entire town, was picture-perfect. Raju took us to a traditional Bhutanese restaurant for lunch and it was to be one of our best culinary experiences in Bhutan. The National Museum was a good way to start as it let us get acquainted with the culture and history of Bhutan before starting our journey east.

Paro Town

Young monks at Paro Dzong

Paro Dzong at night

Day 2
The hike to Thaktsang / Tiger’s Nest Monastery is a great walk and the destination even better - a good Banjara walk. This being our first walk in Himalayas in close to a year, we were delighted but a little sluggish. We took our time but thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. We had lunch at a buffet restaurant on our way back; the food couldn’t have been better.
Along the trail to Thaktsang, we saw a board with a tribute, “… Take back memories of a Kingdom. For here in this Kingdom rules an unparalleled benevolent King”. We were to hear such tributes to King Jigme Singye Wangchuk through the rest of our journey in Bhutan – relating his selflessness, far-sightedness and concern for his people, his country and its natural resources.

Tiger's Nest monastery

Day 3
This was the first day of the Druk Path trek. It was to be a 10 KM uphill walk to Jile Dzong campsite. It was drizzling when we started the walk and it continued to drizzle throughout the day. We were prepared for the drizzle though - rainwear, ponchos. Pallavi didn’t have a waterproof bag cover but Raju was kind enough to lend his cover to her (he could wear his poncho over his bag). By the time we reached the campsite, it was hailing and the temperature falling rapidly.
Raju got a bonfire going and we discussed the remaining part of the trek over soup. We learned to our surprise that Druk Path Trek should ideally be done over 5 – 6 days. Given that we were not the fittest walkers, Raju felt it would be difficult to do it in 4 days. He suggested that we take a shorter route through Tsaluna and join back the main trail at Phume la. We decided to take the shorter route.
We were treated to a full course of dinner (soup, chapattis, rice, curries, papad, dessert), incredible considering the weather. The night was very, very cold with the temperature dropping to sub-zero even as we were having dinner. We shivered the night through, and were glad to see the morning light the next day.

Wet and mossy all the way...

Jile Dzong towering over our campsite

Day 4
Over a sumptuous breakfast, we learnt that it had snowed heavily at Jimilang Tso and impossible for the mule pack train to take the main trail. So, even the other groups took the shorter route through Tsaluna. The walk was very pleasant (with glorious sunshine) and mostly downhill. We got to the campsite in Tsaluna by evening - a large clearing in the forest. We had a fantastic campfire going and ended the evening with singing and dancing. The night was warmer than the previous night and we slept well.

Campsite at Tsaluna

Day 5
This was to be a tough day. It was uphill most of the way, but the weather was good and we reached Phume la by lunchtime. We could see Thimphu for the first time a few hundred meters from Phume la. It was a gradual walk from Phume la to Phajoding campsite. As evening set in, it became very cold. Lighting a campfire was prohibited and we had to shiver the evening through. Luckily we could warm ourselves (along with other monks from the Phajoding Monastery) at a fire lit to heat stones for a hot stone bath (for all monks getting their heads shaven). It was nice to be able to see the chores of the monks from such close distance. Life in a monastery is simple and untouched by development and modernization. It’s a way of life that could change rapidly as modernization seems inevitable in Bhutan. Traditionally, Bhutanese were self-sufficient; as was every other country before industrial revolution, mass production and the resulting globalization changed that forever. More and more people are moving away from farming to salaried jobs. Increasingly food is being imported into Bhutan – about 80% in 2003, as per a survey. Sale of automobiles is on the rise. Considering the current global shortage of resources (oil, food), modernization could just be happening at the wrong time for the Bhutanese. It is not only desirable but also necessary for Bhutan to control the rate of “modernization” so that they don't over-rely on resources that they (and others around the world) will increasingly and alarmingly find “drying-up”.


Day 6
We bid farewell to the staff members who made our trek immensely comfortable and enjoyable with their impeccable service.
Raju and we walked back along the main Druk Path trail over Thujidrag Gompa up to Labana La – to hit the highest point of our trek – 4210 m. It is a steep walk; we were lucky to get a glimpse of the mighty Jhomolhari from Labana la – just for a few minutes though, before it hid behind thick clouds. We came back to the Phajoding campsite and started immediately for Motithang, where Raj would be waiting for us in his car. The sun was blazing and it was incredibly hot. It was a relief to finally see Raj and the Hiace (our car for the journey).
As we drove through Thimphu towards our hotel, Hotel Riverview, I was struck by the architectural beauty, cleanliness and orderliness of Thimphu.
Back in a hotel after 4 days, a bathroom with running hot water felt great. We washed after 4 days and it was very refreshing.
In the evening, Raju took us shopping around Norling Lam. We had dinner with Anan and Raju at Bhutan Kitchen and rounded it off with a couple of drinks at Om bar.

Glimpse of Jhomolhari

Day 7
On this day, Raj took over from Raju as our guide for the rest of the journey. Raj is somber, but knowledgeable and very experienced as a guide.
Not having had an opportunity to see much of Thimphu the previous day, we spent most of the day sightseeing. At the National Institute for Zorig Chusum, it is amazing to see hundreds of young people learning traditional arts and crafts. Tuition is free here, like in all other schools and (the only) university in Bhutan. Bhutan’s focus on preserving their culture and tradition is very heartening and we could only wish something like this could happen in India. Had there been a similar school in Bhopal, Pallavi says she would certainly have enrolled there instead of an engineering college.
We would have loved to spend another evening in Thimphu. With its many restaurants and bars – it has a better nightlife than Bangalore - the city is great to wander about in the night. Also, there is much to see in Thimphu and an additional day would have allowed us to visit them all. We couldn’t visit either of the Dzongs in Thimphu nor the Motithang Takin Preserve (though we got a glimpse of Takins in the Reserve on our way to Thimphu the previous evening).
In any case, by late afternoon we set out on the first of our long road journeys, from Thimphu to Punakha. Regrettably, we arrived in Punakha after sunset. Punakha is a warm place and the hotel - Meri Puensum Resort – had a garden gazebo and an open bar. It would have been great to spend the early evening relaxing in the gazebo with a beer.

Dolls - made by students at the National Institute of traditional arts and crafts

Day 8
Punakha dzong has to be my favorite dzong in Bhutan. It is located at the confluence of Mo-chu and Pho-chu. It is a very large dzong and a winter residence of the desi. We wander through the dzong and witness a ceremony with Buddhist chanting. The main temple in the dzong has floor to ceiling murals depicting Sakyamuni’s life story. The richness and beauty of these murals is captivating and we spent a good hour there. The serenity of this temple was in sharp contrast to the temples in India, which are assaults on the senses.
Raj had planned a walk up a hillside but we were not up to it. Instead, we drove along the Mo-Chu and spent a few hours by the river. I took a lot of pictures of River Lapwings that were sunning themselves by the river. Some people come canoeing down the river. It would have been good to stay in Punakha another day and canoe.
After another good Bhutanese lunch, we head off to Phobjika. By this time, I had caught a cold. As we turned into Phobjika valley, all around were dwarf bamboo clusters in a marsh. We arrived in Phobjika town by early evening. There is no electricity in Phobjika as the electric wires may cause harm to the endangered black-necked cranes that migrate to Phobjika valley every winter.
Rooms in the hotel, Dewachen Hotel, are large and we experienced our first in-room Bukhari.

Punakha Dzong

River Lapwings

Day 9
My cold got worse and I choose to stay indoors while the others go out on a day walk. It is very cold outside and it starts raining in the afternoon, taking the mercury further down.
Between Punakha and Phobjika, we crossed Wangdue Phodrang, a roadside village. The houses were packed together along the narrow road. It was unlike any other villages and towns of Bhutan (which are spread out and well planned). It was astonishing to know that the entire village will be moved to another location lower in the valley – land has already been identified and allocated for this. It is inconceivable in India. I think about the advantages of a dictatorship provided it comes with a benevolent King.


Day 10
We leave for Bumthang today. This is going to be a long road journey. We started early, as we would like to visit Trongsa dzong en-route. Trongsa dzong is strategically located on the thoroughfare between North-South and East-West. Taxes collected here made Trongsa a very powerful dzongkha. The dzong’s fortifications are awesome and the views of the valley incredible.
We see an archer practicing next to the dzong, out in the open. The targets are placed 140 m apart and the archer shoots arrows from one end, walks to the other end and shoots the other way round. Archers playing in the open, next to roads or wherever there is enough space, is a common sight all over Bhutan.
We arrive at Bumthang, the land of Red Panda beer, in the evening. The hotel, River Lodge, is spread out and the most westernized of all our hotels in Bhutan – including disappointingly, the food.


Day 11
The cold still lingers, but I feel better than in Phobjika. So, I join the others on a walking tour of Bumthang. We walk through fields, see many birds, and visit an old dilapidated palace and several temples. By mid-day it gets very hot and we head back to the hotel after having lunch at a restaurant called Himalayan Pizza. I have my first beer after Om bar. After lunch, Raj wants to take us to a debate between monks, in the old tradition. On way, we visit Bumthang Brewery, makers of the Red Panda beer – a Weiss (wheat) beer, unfiltered and containing natural yeast. It is my first brewery visit and I am very, very excited. We get a guided tour. The total area of the brewery cannot be more than 3000 sq. ft. There is only one person working in the brewery – the brew master. He sticks the labels on the bottle himself, manually. Wow! Beer can’t get more personal than that. So, I head straight to the nearest shop and buy a pack of 12 Red Panda beer bottles. Pallavi tells me it may be inconvenient carrying them back to Bangalore. But I am willing to take a chance.
We go to the monastery but are disappointed to learn that the debate is cancelled. We head back to the hotel. On Raj’s advice, I go into town and buy Apple Brandy – at a snooker bar. I drink a big shot and go to sleep.

Bumthang brewery - makers of Red Panda

Day 12
The cold seems to be subsiding. Apple brandy rocks. We are leaving today for the east, which most tourists skip, preferring to head back to Paro instead. We intend to stay over-night at Mongar before heading to Trashiyangtse. It’s a long journey. By this time, Pallavi and Raj have managed to make amateur birders of all of us. We request Ram to stop whenever we see a bird. This is turning into a good birding tour.
We arrive in Mongar by evening. The weather is warm and the hotel (Wangchuk Hotel) is grand. My health is good for the first time after Punakha.

Prayer flags on a high mountain pass

Watching Birds

Day 13
Today is another long drive to Trashiyangtse. We are now in the lower hills – the mercury is rising. With several stops for birding, we reach Trashiyangtse by evening. It’s a very pretty village. The roads, houses and the general landscape are picture perfect. Not many tourists come to these parts of Bhutan. Bomdeling Wildlife Sanctuary is a stone’s throw away and is a good reason for visiting Trashiyangtse. Indian border (Arunachal Pradesh) is also near.
We stay the night at Karmaling Hotel, a basic hotel. The dinner is great. The old man who serves us dinner also happens to be the owner. We get to know later that he was the secretary of the 3rd King and owns much of the land around Trashiyangtse. His son is in Austria studying Hotel Management and hopefully things should be much better in the coming years.


Day 14
We set out into the Bomdeling Wildlife Sanctuary after breakfast. It is warm and moist. We take a trail along the Kulong Chu. There are many birds in spite of the disturbance due to villages and farming activity in the buffer zone of the sanctuary. We would have loved to plan a multi-day trek that could have taken us deeper into the Sanctuary. But we just have the morning, as we want to be in Trashigang by evening.
We are sad as we realize this is the journey back, out of Bhutan, and the end of our fantastic holiday. Tomorrow we will be in Sumdrup Jongkhar, the border town, for our last night in Bhutan.
We arrive in Trashigang by evening. We stay overnight at Druk Deothjung Hotel. It is a beautiful setting. The hotel has a courtyard, straight out of an Indian village, around which the rooms are constructed. There is also a small balcony that overlooks the Trashigang dzong.

Town of Trashiyangtse

Day 15
This is our last day in Bhutan. We are very tired and would have just let the miles go by, but there was one last thing that we were hoping to see – one of the various hornbills that are found here. We scan the valleys below and the hill-slopes above for any sign of these magnificent birds. On all long road journeys, on Raj’s advise, we walk along the road for an hour or two. It gives us a chance to absorb the natural landscape and also a better opportunity to see and photograph birds. On this day, while we are walking along the road, we sight 2 rufous-necked hornbills. Though they are far, we are fortunate to witness a male feeding a female. It is a special moment and we reach Samdrup Jongkhar on a high, bringing and end to our extraordinary journey through Bhutan. We will come back here again, maybe for a trek –Jhomolhari or Rodang La. Until then, the pictures and memories of our travel through the last Shangri-la will serve to remind us of a way of life that we are fast losing in India – driven as we are by our greed and a myopic focus on 9% growth.

At long last...

Well, come to India!